Ode to Kodaikanal

 

Rolling Meadows  and lush grasslands, tall eucalyptus trees and dense shola forests, breathtaking valley views and waterfalls that materialise from nowhere and, the omnipresent lake - these, and many more, are the enduring images of Kodaikanal, or more endearingly, ‎Kodi, that haven in the Palani hills, which has been my favourite refuge, for over fifty years now! 

It is said that a picture paints a thousand words and it is through the pictures that I have been fortunate enough to shoot, over the years, that I present this ode to Kodaikanal. I remember my first visit to Kodi, as a schoolboy in the care of my uncle and aunt, winding our way up the ghat road. The memories are many - of a carefree childhood, young adulthood and beyond, and while the ravages of time and the mindless exploitation for commercial gain have left their ugly scars on this verdant land, Kodi still remains the 'Princess of hill stations'!

Over the years, trips to this tranquil sanctuary in the hills have become less frequent than I would have liked, but the magic of her attraction has remained undiminished. Whether it is the serenity of the placid lake on a cold winter morning or the freshness of the eucalyptus laden mountain air, one's senses are constantly caressed and spirits uplifted, like nowhere else.

The soothing silence of the night is broken only by the sound of crickets and as you gaze up into the brilliant night sky filled with a million stars, you realise the havoc that pollution has wreaked on our urban landscapes. The early morning walk around the lake is admittedly less pleasurable these days, thanks to the insensitivity of us homosapiens, but for a city dweller such as I, still quite an enjoyable start to the day.

Of course, no account of this magnificent landscape would be complete without a mention of its beautiful flowers, from rhododendrons to magnolias and dahlias and the mind boggling variety of bird life! Every colour, shape and size is on display, a veritable feast for the senses.

TIGER TRAIL

Kanha, Pench, Kabini, Kanha again, and now Ranthambore. The elusive search for the magnificent cat, took us to Rajasthan, this time! Rajasthan is an amazing land, history beckons at every corner and you can't but be blown away by the architectural splendour of the forts, palaces and havelis. There is also the great desert, the Aravalli mountain ranges and vast areas of greenery. And there are the rugged and hilly forests of the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, which is as much about nature, as it is about history! The Ranthambore National Park lies between the Aravali hills and the Vindhyan plateau and the first awe inspiring sight that greets you when you enter the park, is the imposing 10th Century fort of Ranthambore, a Unesco World Heritage Site.

It is a typically cold but sunny December afternoon, certainly more siesta time, than safari time! But there we were, three layers of clothing and all, in an open top Maruti Gypsy, heading off into Tiger country. Ranthambore, like all other sanctuaries, is divided into zones and we were assigned zone three, on that day. Our driver cum guide was a reticent soul and the only thing of note that he shared with us was that the governor of Rajasthan, VVIP in government parlance, was also likely to be on the trail. The unspoken message was that we had to stay out of her way!


We often tend to forget that the jungle is home to an amazing array of animals and birds and while the big cats are the most glamorous, the 'lesser' lights are no less beautiful. The Sambar deer is a fine example of that.  

Ranthambore also abounds in Nilgai, the deer species that looks more like a horse!! What a majestic bearing and gait he has!

The Chinkara or the Indian Gazelle and Chital are the other commonly spotted animals in these forests.

Ranthambore is a very picturesque forest as well, both because of its varied terrain and the large water bodies that lie within its vast expanse. Unsurprisingly, this is where the inhabitants of the forest, big and small, weak and strong, all throng, especially in summer, to escape the searing heat and to quench their thirst.

These forests are also home to the snub nosed marsh crocodile and we saw a few of them, sunning themselves in the lazy winter sun.

 

Bird life in Ranthambore is as colourful and exciting as anything else. Over 270 species are said to have been documented and these cover a wide sweep of both resident and migrant birds.

Purple Sunbird

Oriental Magpie Robin

As I have discovered over the years, photographing birds is one of the most challenging things, especially for an amateur like me. By the time you've composed your picture and got your settings in place, the guy's gone! It can be so frustrating at times!

Black Redstart

Grey-headed canary flycatcher

But nature teaches you patience and humility and over time, I have learnt to be grateful for the wonderful sights she has shown me and the few nice photographs that I have been fortunate to shoot.

Rufous Treepie

Gosh! this started off as a tiger tale, didn't it? I guess I did get carried away with the other riches of the wild. But with the Governor breathing down on us, our reticent, not so unfriendly driver decided that we ordinary mortals deserved a fair chance, as well. As we bumped and jolted along the much traversed trails, we suddenly spied another parked Jeep, with a game warden like lady at the wheel. As we pulled alongside, we realised why she was parked-There in the long grass lay, in all his majesty, the magnificent cat, Akash, looking disdainfully at us gaping humans, indulging us, as our cameras clicked furiously away!

The wait of a lifetime was over! But the lure of the wild has only grown stronger. Perhaps, another day, another tiger.

HAMPI

On the banks of the tranquil Tungabhadra river, lie the magnificent remains of the great city of Vijayanagara, known today as Hampi.

Conquerors, vandals and nature, have each left their ugly scars on, what is believed to have been, one of the most beautiful and imposing cities of all time. Each forlorn temple, palace and courtyard, is a poignant reminder of the glory of the Vijayanagar empire.




One can only stare, in awe, at the scale, precision and grandeur of the many beautiful monuments that stand in mute testimony, as much to the architectural and engineering brilliance of their builders, as to the might and power of King Krishnadevaraya and the Vijayanagar empire.

Elephant stables

Stepped bath

Hampi's temples are many. The Virupaksha temple where worship happens to this day, is believed to be one of the oldest functioning temples in India.

The Vittala temple is probably the architectural high point of Hampi, though one is likely to be challenged on that, given the wealth of architectural brilliance all around Hampi.

Each pillar tells a story and the sculptures are exquisite.

Kalinga Nardanam

Matsya Avataram

The Stone Chariot is clearly the piece de resistance, in the Vittala Temple complex.

The Hazara Rama temple, the Krishna temple and countless other temples dot the landscape.

Sita hands over Choodamani to Hanuman

Hanuman

Of course, no account of Hampi would be complete without a mention of the 7 metre high idol of Lord Narasimha. The word, imposing, takes on a whole new meaning as you stand before him!

The well preserved, three metre high Badava Linga is also a sight to behold and the list is truly endless, as you criss cross this magical landscape.

Perhaps the best preserved building in Hampi, the Lotus Mahal is a stunning two storeyed structure, which combines Islamic and Hindu styles and is actually shaped like a partly open lotus!

We took the short coracle ride across the river, to the quiet little village of Anegundi, which is said to be the original capital of the region.

Anegundi, believed to be the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha in the Ramayana, is at a distance of 5 km from the historical site of Hampi. Anjanadri hill, the birth place of monkey-god Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the other places near Anegundi associated with Ramayana.

Today, it is a lush agricultural belt, with paddy fields stretching as far as one can see. Unsurprisingly, there are several temples in and around Anegundi. Where nature is bountiful, can the birds be far away?!

Purple Heron

Blue tailed Bee eater

White throated Kingfisher

There are several options to get to the places around Anegundi - one can hire bicycles, motorbikes or an auto rickshaw, like we did! My most enduring memory of the trip had to do with our auto rickshaw driver, who stopped to offer a lift to an elderly lady, who promptly got in and sat down beside him! A young man being spontaneously kind to a village elder. There is hope yet, for our country.

A Unesco World Heritage Site, conservation efforts are very much in evidence all around Hampi, unlike the many ruins (I hate that word) all over the country, that are in an appalling state of neglect. As with every other trip that I have taken, this too was a reminder of the varied riches of this great land.

You can double click on the images to view the full picture.

Welcome to my jungle!

It's been almost a year, to the day, since my last post! I have to put it down to a combination of blogger's block and photographer's block, I guess. Poor excuses, no doubt and thanks to my good friend Balaji for bringing the Rambler home!


Over the years, we have all had reason to bemoan the price that we have had to pay for urbanisation and the virtual disappearance of several things that were such an integral part of our childhoods. Large open spaces, the ubiquitous sparrow, the ‘Rita’ ice cream push cart, ‘Drive-in’ Woodlands and the milling crowds at first division cricket matches, are but a few of the sights and smells of Madras, that now belong in history books.


Inevitably, the old single and two storey houses have given way to apartment blocks and Madras has emulated its ‘metro’ cousins, Bombay and Delhi in becoming a concrete jungle. Thankfully, however, Madras still has more green cover than most cities in the country - at least that’s the impression you get, when you see it from the air. Perhaps, it has to do with the expanse of the Guindy forest, from IIT to the Raj Bhavan and equally, to havens like the Theosophical Society. But it is true that we still have the luxury of tree lined avenues, public parks – several of them well maintained – and private homes that usually boast of a couple of coconut trees, a mango tree or perhaps a neem tree, plus a smattering of flowering plants.

Over the years, as I have lamented the above chronicled changes, I have also had occasion to observe and welcome (??) a few visitors of the non human variety, as they have chosen at various times, to make the trees and shrubs around our house their temporary abodes and on occasion, gone a little further too!! From squirrels that chose to nest in the cups of our ceiling fans and a cat that chose my son's cupboard to litter in, to a baby mynah taking her first flying lessons and a certain slithering green reptile who took a liking to our wrought iron staircase, we've had some variety for sure; And then of course, the amazing array of birds and their music!


To this day, I am blessed to awaken to a chatter of sounds and birdsong and momentarily forget the concrete jungle around me. At dawn and the hours immediately preceding and succeeding it, you would almost believe that you were some place else. Welcome to my jungle! As always, please click on the images to see full size images.

Black rumped flameback

Love is.... sharing a meal!

To fly or not to fly?

Green vine snake

Indian Koel female

Indian Koel male

rufous treepie

WEEKEND RAMBLINGS

 
It is the hour of evening gloom. The sun has left the western skies, the birds have retired to the sanctuary of their cosy nests and I sit here in my glorious loneliness, pondering the meaning of life, people and relationships, yet again. It is that time in life. The children are grown and have taken wing, to soar and to seek frontiers farther than their parents ever dared to. A whole new world awaits them, much as it did for us, all those years ago.To be young is to be alive, to discover, to hope and to dream the impossible dream. There are many dreams to dream, many a mountain to climb and that magic rainbow to discover; that is the excitement young adulthood brings. The world awaits them. In whatever manner, humble or great, they shall touch some lives, bring a smile to a care worn face, and wipe the tears of a less fortunate one. But as they enter the adult world, they bid a final farewell to the happiest and most carefree times of their lives. This is not to deny that several great joys and triumphs await them on the road ahead, but many of them will come at a cost, financial, emotional, whatever. Many years on, they will cast back to these times and wistfully remember the joys of what were their childhood and youth. But for now, they must live their lives in forward motion. As was famously said, life must be lived forwards, but can only be understood backwards!

Kahlil Gibran wrote, "Your children are not your children. They are the sons and daughters of Life's longing for itself. They came through you but not from you and though they are with you, yet they belong not to you."  We as parents must grow up to accept that reality. In the larger scheme of things we are merely the incubators of god's progeny, no more, no less.

KABINI-NAGARHOLE

The boundless beauty of this great land never ceases to amaze me . Kerala is deservedly called God's Own Country, but Karnataka is no less his!

We spent three extraordinarily beautiful days at Orange County Resort, on the banks of the Kabini river, skirting the Nagarahole and Bandipur National Parks, acknowledged as some of the most pristine forest areas in India. This region is said to have one of the largest concentrations of the majestic Asiatic elephant and is perhaps one of safest havens for that most desperately endangered of species, the magnificent tiger. These forests are also home to the Indian Gaur or Bison, a few varieties of deer, wild dogs, sloth bear and the elusive leopard, not to speak of the incredible array of bird species, both native and migratory.

With the monsoon just about setting in, the vegetation is already lush and green and the 'dry deciduous forests' that you read about are nowhere in sight. The verdant landscape is a feast for the eyes but not great news if you're hoping to spot the big cats, on safari.

There are two safari options, a jeep safari that takes you along narrow trails into the dense jungle and the boat safari that takes you along the Kabini, flanked by the Nagarahole Reserve on one side and the Bandipur Reserve on the other. We saw several herds of elephants, a couple of solitary tuskers, bison, deer and a few crocodiles, sunning themselves on the riverbank. The predators, however, chose to make themselves scarce. Of course, birds of all shapes, sizes and hues were aplenty.

When you're out in the wild, you realise the enormity of the creator's master plan. Every little detail has been thought of, every thing has its place, its designated role to play. There is abundance, but never waste. Even the fearsome predators kill only when they are hungry. The delicate balance of nature is thus perfectly maintained. You cannot but be humbled by this.

In this intricate and elaborate scheme,there is only one intruder- man. His never ending greed has meant that animals are being relentlessly driven out of their homes, their natural habitats. Man's unerring ability to destroy and decimate things which he can neither create nor replicate, is on display everywhere. Whether it is the indiscriminate felling of trees or the illegal building of resorts on forest lands, they only hasten the process of ecological destruction. The horrendous and barbaric spectre of poaching is, of course, the biggest threat to India's wildlife. It is a national shame but precious little is being done to stop it. Coming generations may well read about and see pictures of lions and tigers in much the same way as we have of dinosaurs and mammoths. The cynic would say that in a land where human lives mean very little, why cry over mere animals. I would be tempted to agree, except that in the larger ecological equation, the systematic destruction of forests and extinction of animal and bird species are merely curtain raisers for the extinction of the most destructive and arrogant of all species - Homo sapiens.

These are depressing thoughts to bring back from a great holiday; but caught up as we are in our frenetic urban lives, when else will we reflect on these harsh realities that confront us?


A VIEW OF THE RESORT

SHOWING OFF!
























RED VENTED BULBUL

TUSKER CROSSING

GREY HERON

CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE

SUNBATHING

RED WHISKERED BULBUL

CRESTED HAWK EAGLE

INDIAN GAUR

EMERALD BEETLE

SCALY BREASTED MUNIA

GIANT MALABAR SQUIRREL

LONG TAILED SHRIKE

RED WATTLED LAPWING IN FLIGHT