HAMPI

On the banks of the tranquil Tungabhadra river, lie the magnificent remains of the great city of Vijayanagara, known today as Hampi.

Conquerors, vandals and nature, have each left their ugly scars on, what is believed to have been, one of the most beautiful and imposing cities of all time. Each forlorn temple, palace and courtyard, is a poignant reminder of the glory of the Vijayanagar empire.




One can only stare, in awe, at the scale, precision and grandeur of the many beautiful monuments that stand in mute testimony, as much to the architectural and engineering brilliance of their builders, as to the might and power of King Krishnadevaraya and the Vijayanagar empire.

Elephant stables

Stepped bath

Hampi's temples are many. The Virupaksha temple where worship happens to this day, is believed to be one of the oldest functioning temples in India.

The Vittala temple is probably the architectural high point of Hampi, though one is likely to be challenged on that, given the wealth of architectural brilliance all around Hampi.

Each pillar tells a story and the sculptures are exquisite.

Kalinga Nardanam

Matsya Avataram

The Stone Chariot is clearly the piece de resistance, in the Vittala Temple complex.

The Hazara Rama temple, the Krishna temple and countless other temples dot the landscape.

Sita hands over Choodamani to Hanuman

Hanuman

Of course, no account of Hampi would be complete without a mention of the 7 metre high idol of Lord Narasimha. The word, imposing, takes on a whole new meaning as you stand before him!

The well preserved, three metre high Badava Linga is also a sight to behold and the list is truly endless, as you criss cross this magical landscape.

Perhaps the best preserved building in Hampi, the Lotus Mahal is a stunning two storeyed structure, which combines Islamic and Hindu styles and is actually shaped like a partly open lotus!

We took the short coracle ride across the river, to the quiet little village of Anegundi, which is said to be the original capital of the region.

Anegundi, believed to be the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha in the Ramayana, is at a distance of 5 km from the historical site of Hampi. Anjanadri hill, the birth place of monkey-god Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the other places near Anegundi associated with Ramayana.

Today, it is a lush agricultural belt, with paddy fields stretching as far as one can see. Unsurprisingly, there are several temples in and around Anegundi. Where nature is bountiful, can the birds be far away?!

Purple Heron

Blue tailed Bee eater

White throated Kingfisher

There are several options to get to the places around Anegundi - one can hire bicycles, motorbikes or an auto rickshaw, like we did! My most enduring memory of the trip had to do with our auto rickshaw driver, who stopped to offer a lift to an elderly lady, who promptly got in and sat down beside him! A young man being spontaneously kind to a village elder. There is hope yet, for our country.

A Unesco World Heritage Site, conservation efforts are very much in evidence all around Hampi, unlike the many ruins (I hate that word) all over the country, that are in an appalling state of neglect. As with every other trip that I have taken, this too was a reminder of the varied riches of this great land.

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